Otago Central Rail Trail Review

When I try and think of a single memorable experience that encapsulates the

150 km Otago Rail Trail it's impossible, because every day was memorable in itself! We were overwhelmed by the history and felt that we had really gone back in time. Everywhere that we stopped dated back to the late 1800s - it was just amazing. This period may seem kind of modern to UK visitors, but for us New Zealanders it takes us right back to the early days of New Zealand settlement.

 

The scenery was stunning throughout our trip - and what made it even better was that much of it can't be seen from the road.    As we cycled through broad valleys, on one side were the snowcapped Dunstan Mountains, to the other side was the North Rough Ridge and in front of us was the St. Bathans range. It was breathtaking. Panoramic skies, dramatic landscapes, awesome gorges, tussock grasses, schist rock, orchards, vineyards, farmlands, lakes, rivers, dams, hills, fertile plains - we saw them all. We were travelling in June, which is low season in New Zealand so the weather was a bit changeable, but mostly ideal for cycling. We certainly had a few opportunities to bask in the sunshine and let the warmth soak in!

 

But let's get back to the beginning. After a full briefing my wife Terry and I overnighted at Dunstan House, just outside Clyde, where John and Maree Davidson gave us a warm welcome. (Apparently, if you give John a couple of wines he is known to get out his guitar and encourage everyone to join in an impromptu sing-a-long!) After a fantastic breakfast of smoked salmon and croissants we were taken to the base of the trail at Clyde and off we went to the great unknown.

 

Our one concern was how we'd manage riding bikes for some distance over several days but in fact it was a breeze. Our bikes were a sheer joy and there is no comparison to the ones we have at home. These were hybrids - a cross between a mountain bike and a regular bike. They had up to 24 gears, sprung seats and excellent suspension. You push a button one way and the gears go up - you push it another and the gears go down and you think "wow" this is really easy!

 

A case in point is Tiger Hill, one of the key sections on the first day of the trail. I guess people approach it with some apprehension because of the name! In fact it took less than half an hour from the bottom to the top, and all of the gears on the bike made it pretty easy. 

 

It was all downhill from here, and a nice easy trip to Omakau where we took time out to visit Ophir, a tiny settlement across the river which had originally ranked as one of the country's most authentic and significant settlements during the gold rush. An estimated 1200 oz of gold was discovered there in its heyday. If you stood there and closed your eyes it was easy to imagine the overwhelming excitement and dreams of great wealth that could have been yours for the taking if only you knew where to look.

 

Our days quickly took on a similar rhythm. We'd have a good breakfast then set off between 8.30 am and 9.30 am with the aim of covering 30 - 50 kms. We'd stop for rest breaks, coffee breaks, lunch breaks, tea breaks…. We soon came to realise that after 15 or 20 kilometres we'd reach a village or a pub where we could cool down and relax with a Speights beer or some good grub so we'd always put in that little bit of extra effort. I carried everything I needed for the trip in my pannier bags, but Terry took advantage of the daily luggage service where your bags are picked up and delivered to your nightly accommodation.

 

We met loads of fellow kiwis along the way because everyone here knows about the gold rush and loves the idea of immersing themselves in its history. We also kept meeting up with the same people so we'd all share our experiences which made it all the more fun. The Otago Rail Trail has always been a very popular choice with holidaying New Zealanders, be they on a weekend trip from Auckland or visiting their family and friends in the South Island, so if you want a genuine 'kiwi' experience this should come high on the list!

 

On the second day of the trail we rode through the secluded Poolburn Gorge in the Ida Valley where we came across the first of several tunnels on the trip. Obviously these are very dark, so you need a torch - and this is where you are liable to fall off your bike! Riding with a torch is very disorientating. If you can hang on long enough then it's possible to use the light at the end of the tunnel as a marker - otherwise it's easier to walk!

 

After two tunnels and two viaducts we stopped for lunch at Oturehua (oh-too-re-who-a) where the temperature dropped markedly and the rain came down.   In fact Oturehua has the coldest weather in New Zealand in the winter - and the hottest in the summer. In the winter the hoar frosts are so cold that icicles hang off the trees and washing freezes into boards if left on a line outside!

 

Luckily we had our wet weather gear with us but by the time we arrived at the small township of Naseby, our base for the night, we were looking forward to a bit of r and r! We'd arranged to stay at the 19th century Royal Hotel which is a little off the beaten track, so we phoned when we were nearly there and were soon collected by the owners. After a hot shower and a few drinks around a roaring log fire the world soon seemed a much better place, so we set off for the local institution - the indoor curling rink. Naseby is the country's curling capital and its international standard rink is home to members of the New Zealand Olympic curling team, so it's a real must for visitors.

If you're really brave you could always try the outdoors version….When the ponds freeze over sufficiently the locals get together for a Bonspiel - a curling tournament originating from Scotland and traditionally held on a frozen lake. Folklore has it that before they start the Bonspiel the locals fill a hip flask with whisky - but the colder it is the more they are likely to drink. When it's considered to be freezing cold they describe it as 'one hip flask per end cold'!

 

Back on our bikes the next day it didn't seem any time at all until we reached Ranfurly, which is the largest town in the region. It originally had its heyday in the 1930s, but subsequently went through a decline so land was sold off at a peppercorn rent. Nowadays the strong art deco influences are a major attraction and the whole area is buzzing so we took the opportunity to have a good look round.

Otago has been made famous by the artist Graham Sydney, who is well known throughout New Zealand. In fact his art is considered to be so significant that in 2003 he was awarded an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit (ONZM0 for services to painting. His large majestic landscapes of Otago - many of which feature The Railway Goods Shed at Wedderburn - are collected worldwide and everywhere we went we found wonderful examples of his work on display (although, unfortunately, no originals!)

 

There are plenty of opportunities for diversions along the trail and one that particularly tempted me (although I managed to resist it) was fly fishing in the Taieri river and its tributaries. In fact lots of wealthy visitors come here from Auckland and America specifically for the trout fishing. 

 

During our trip we were lucky enough to meet Stu and Lorraine Duncan - 5th generation farmers in the region and real driving forces behind helping develop tourism around the Wedderburn region.   Like the majority of the people we met throughout our trip, they were wonderfully down to earth people who had a story to tell and were happy to share it with visitors.

 

Stu and Lorraine's Wedderburn Lodge and Cottages provide some of the most comfortable accommodation available on the trail - whilst the adjacent Wedderburn Tavern (est. 1885) has excellent food. In fact the selection of accommodation on the rail trail varies greatly, from 'quaint' to modern, comfortable and well appointed. From a personal point of view, we found that to secure our preferred accommodation we had to make reservations many months in advance. We heard stories of people having to sleep on pub verandahs because there was nowhere available to stay!   The whole region has been turned on its ear by the unexpected popularity of the rail trail experience - in fact some hoteliers are saying that their turnover is now more in one week that it was previously in one month!

 

At the end of the trail at Middlemarch we managed to time our travel to connect with the transfer shuttlebus to Pukerangi where we joined the fabulous Taieri Gorge railway for a two-hour scenic journey to the city of Dunedin. Here we had the opportunity for a well-earned rest. So would we do it all over again - you bet, but next time we'd spend a few days longer exploring the stunning landscapes on the rail trail - and really go for gold!